The Pandemic Declaration

When the pandemic declaration hit, we were in Albania. Each day, we were eagerly reading updates on the news doing our best to keep informed. At first, things didn’t seem so bad. I remember travel bloggers talking about great deals on flights and how they were planning their next trip. Back in those days, we were eyeing the Greek islands for Collie’s spring break (you know … before all the borders started slamming shut).

Albania was one of the first countries to lockdown in Europe, trying to flatten the curve. If you don’t know where Albania is, it’s just above Greece and just to the right of Italy across the Adriatic Sea. With this, we had a front-row seat to the situation in Italy and how quickly things escalated and changed for the worse.

From Bad to Worse

We knew it was serious when we heard reports that Italy had 600+ deaths per day, and with that volume, they were unable to cremate the bodies quickly enough to keep up. This forced them to use military vehicles to transport the bodies of the dead from the north of the country to the south in order to cremate them fast enough.

To add to this, they cut off medical services to anyone over 80, and they were considering lowering the age to 75. Our hearts were so heavy as we grieved for this beautiful country, a place that we had loved visiting and roamed freely throughout less than 1 year ago. It’s hard to believe that things change so quickly.

Lockdown in Albania

When this happened, Albania took swift action. They are a transitioning economy (hoping to one day join the European Union), but their healthcare system is weak. We knew that if it broke out badly in Albania, it would be a terrible situation, but thankfully they took swift action.

Albania initiated curfews, social distancing rules, closed all business, and did their best to shut down life in Albania while we did our best to decipher Google’s shoddy translation of the Prime Minister’s announcements on Facebook. We did not want to miss an announcement and get fined 1,000€ for breaking the ever-changing rules!

It was entertaining to watch the restrictions evolve daily, trying to enforce social distancing. At first, they closed the schools, but then the students all went to hang out at the coffee bars. Then they closed the coffee bars, which drew people to the public parks and squares. Next, they shut down the parks, and so we’d see groups of elderly men with sack lunches hanging out by their cars in the street. Finally, they just forbade anyone being outside for any reason (except for a small period of time when the curfew would lift).

The Evacuation

We had planned to ride out COVID-19 in Albania, but as the world spun more and more out of control, Daniel’s work asked us to return home. We are so thankful for the flexibility that we have enjoyed to work from anywhere in the world and to travel. It’s been so good for us, for our marriage, and for our professional development. We didn’t want to push our luck, and so we gladly complied with their request.

Our evacuation was a whirlwind. Things were changing so quickly, we booked our tickets late Friday night and were on the plane by Sunday 8AM. We packed up our lives in less than 36 hours. We were used to living out of a few suitcases, but with more than 6 months in Albania, we had accumulated a few things. Plus, we were planning to stay in Albania, so we had 2 weeks of food and water stockpiled in case either of us became ill to limit the spread.

We were on one of the last planes out of Albania loaded down with 200 pounds of luggage (thank you, Turkish Airlines for the generous free baggage allowance!). Luckily, on both legs of our journey, we had an entire row on the plane to ourselves. With all the chaos, it was nice being able to stretch out and to enjoy some movies (you should see “Ford vs Ferrari” … it’s great!).

Arriving in America

When we arrived in the states, we were shocked (and dismayed) at the lack of screening for COVID-19. We landed in Atlanta, Georgia, and many travel restrictions were already in place. On the plane, we filled in a form that asked lots of questions about if you were having any symptoms, where you’re sitting on the plane, where you have been, etc.

Nobody collected that form.

Nobody was screening for temperature. Nothing. All they asked was, “where are you flying from.” We said, “Albania.” “Welcome home.” That was it.

After being so near the devastation in Italy, we weren’t taking any chances. We choose to self-isolate and quarantine for 14 days (partially convinced we were going to get sick from the airport and plane). Thankfully though, both of us have been completely healthy.

Gratitude for the past

Throughout our travels, we always knew that this was a unique, privileged time. As US citizens, we have powerful passports that allow us to simply show up and walk into nearly any country on the planet (well, for at least 3 months at a time).

As many of Daniel’s coworkers know, for many countries, things are substantially more complicated with extensive visa requirements, screenings at the embassy, and even sometimes having to prove to the embassy that you really did return to your home country after the trip is over.

We journeyed through lands that had been war-torn less than 30 years ago with buildings that still bear the scars of bullets. These are parts of the world that our parents and grandparents never imagined that they would be able to visit. We freely roamed as welcomed guests with warm hospitality. It gives me fresh hope for parts of the world today that are torn apart by conflict.

What’s next?

We have no idea what the future holds. I mean, our ability to know the future is always limited, but now we are all oh so painfully aware of this reality.

We’ve landed in Missouri for now, and we’re looking forward to visiting with Collie’s family once the quarantine lifts and making our way around the US to reconnect with our friends and family.

The future of travel and tourism is quite uncertain at the moment. It’s insane to think that this has devastated the airline and travel industries more than 9/11.

Like all of us, there are things we are grieving. We had some beautiful plans this summer. Dreams of road trips through Eastern Europe: North Macedonia, Greece, Serbia, Kosovo, Bulgaria and Romania. There were sites to be seen, friends to be made, and all of that isn’t meant to be now.

This is not how we pictured returning to the states. We had visions of grand plans, road trips, and homecomings with friends and family. Social distancing was definitely not a part of the plan. Still, we are safe, we are well, and we are so grateful for each day and every gift we receive from God.

Stay tuned for what crazy ideas we think of next.

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The Gardens

If possible, go to Versailles during the “Fountains Shows and Musical Gardens” (available April to October). While the ticket is a little more expensive, it is worth the price for the experience. The gardens are filled with dozens of spectacular fountains that are more than 200 years old. If you follow the walking route on the map they provide, you won’t miss any of the fountains.

The gardens are spectacular and it’s like walking onto the set of a Jane Austen movie. As you stroll through the beautiful setting, you can get a real sense of what life was like for the royal family.

In contrast to the Louvre and the interior of the palace, there is plenty of open space in the gardens. This is a relaxing escape from the typical throngs of tourists that dominate most Paris attractions. Food and toilets are available throughout the gardens and across the entire estate which is incredibly convenient.

The Palace

The interior of the palace is majestic in every way and oftentimes overwhelming. Every ceiling is covered with paintings, and the detail in each room is incredible. There is a free app available with an enjoyable audio guide that explains the history and function of each room.

Apart from the King’s Apartment, the ladies chambers were less crowded and provided an interesting glimpse into royal life. The king’s daughters were known as “The Daughters of France.” Each princess had her own library in which all of the books were bound using a unique leather color to distinguish one collection from the other princess’ library.

Finally, the Hall of Mirrors is the most famous room of this grand palace. When it was built, mirrors were incredibly expensive, and this hall was a distinct expression of the King’s virtually limitless wealth. The Hall of Mirrors also provides a stunning view of the gardens.

The palace is sure to be crowded at any time of day, but your best chance to avoid the crowds is to arrive very early in the morning. Dozens of tour buses arrive every hour, and there is a constant line outside the palace.

The Coach Gallery

While substantially smaller than the other attractions at the palace, the Coach Gallery offers a unique perspective on the evolution of royal transportation. Many royal coaches are on display here nearby the royal stables.

In addition to the standard royal coaches, you can also see several unique pieces that offer a glimpse into royal life. The children had their own miniature coaches to play with (which were often pulled by sheep). Additionally, the royal family’s sled collection is on display. During the winter months, they would race sleds in the snow-covered gardens.

The Estate of Trianon

Deep into the estate, you can find the Estate of Trianon. This lovely gem is a bit of an escape from the crowded, busy palace … and that is exactly why this was built.

Versailles was originally intended to be an escape for the royal family from the business of Paris. However, as Versailles grew in popularity with royal guests, the succeeding generations desired an escape from their escape.

In particular, the infamous Marie-Antoinette (“Let them eat cake”) longed for the “simple” life of a peasant. Here at the Estate of Trianon, you will find the idyllic “Queen’s Hamlet” that was built to imitate rural peasant life (without the starvation and hard labor of course).

Given the enormous size of the gardens and particularly long trek to this estate, it’s advisable to make use of the garden tram to take you to and from the Estate of Trianon.

Getting there

You will need to purchase a special ticket available at any metro station to get to the Palace at Versailles. You can read an excellent summary of how to use the train here. The metro and train system is very useful and easy to use. We recommend using the Google Maps app to plan your route, and it helps to download the metro maps from the website.

Where to stay

We loved our AirBnb, and this particular apartment is in a beautiful neighborhood. Cheaper than a Best Western, you will get a more authentic experience along with a full kitchen and washing machine (which is useful if you’re traveling longterm). We especially loved the little espresso machine.

AirBnb is a fantastic way to travel, and much cheaper than a hotel. If you’d like to learn more about how AirBnbs can save you a ton of money on your next trip, read our tips here.

To read more about our trip to Paris, click here.

Palace at Versailles

30 photos

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The Classics

Everyone wants to see the “Mona Lisa.” To avoid the crowds, we arrived when the museum opened and sprinted toward the fair lady. Our favorite piece though is “Winged Victory,” which is the icon of the museum. This gorgeous statue depicts the moment when the goddess victory landed on the mast of a ship celebrating a naval victory. Finally, be sure to stop by the “Venus de Milo,” which was accidentally discovered by a farmer digging in a field.

French Sculpture Gardens

Near one of the entrances, these sculpture gardens are prominently featured with giant glass walls allowing viewers to peek inside. This gorgeous section of the museum is worth spending some substantial time. Each sculpture is a masterpiece, and there are dozens of sculptures here. Many of these sculptures were originally featured at Versailles and have been moved indoors for conservation.

Monumental Paintings

To fully appreciate the scale of these massive paintings, you must see them in person. At the time, they were the largest paintings in the world (and they are still quite massive). In particular, there are several paintings that were commissioned by Napoleon Bonaparte.

The grandest painting is “The Coronation of Napoleon” which actually depicts the moment Napoleon crowned his wife Josephine. If you look closely, you can see a ghosted outline of what was originally Napoleon’s head when he crowned himself. When the painter decided to change the scene, he simply adjusted the position of Napoleon’s head and painted over what was previously the Emperor’s head.

Ancient Persia

The Louvre boasts many pieces from ancient antiquity featuring several Biblical empires including the Assyrians, the Babylonians, and the Persians. The pictures here feature elements from the palace of King Darius I. The frieze of archers were a tile mosaic (one of many), and the other piece is an enormous capital which topped the columns of the palace. It is difficult to express how tall this enormous statue is, but the height and width are well over 10ft in length.

Getting there

The metro is very useful and easy to use. We recommend using the Google Maps app to plan your route, and it helps to download the metro maps from the website.

Where to stay

We loved our AirBnb, and this particular apartment is in a beautiful neighborhood. Cheaper than a Best Western, you will get a more authentic experience along with a full kitchen and washing machine (which is useful if you’re traveling longterm). We especially loved the little espresso machine.

AirBnb is a fantastic way to travel, and much cheaper than a hotel. If you’d like to learn more about how AirBnbs can save you a ton of money on your next trip, read our tips here.

To read more about our trip to Paris, click here.

The Louvre

22 photos

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We walked for hours exploring the beautiful sites around our AirBnb. It was such a beautiful city, although in September the weather was a bit chilly for this California girl. The leaves were just beginning to change, and with all the old beautiful buildings, it made for a very romantic trip.

Notre Dame

My husband had always wanted to climb the bell towers at Notre Dame, and so we made that our top priority. We learned that Paris has introduced a new online app JeFile This allows you to virtually “wait in line” instead of wasting hours standing outside the Notre Dame.

The app worked perfectly, and we returned at our scheduled time to pay the 10€ entrance fee (about $12). This experience was absolutely unforgettable. We were continually surprised and delighted each time they allowed us further access to the bell towers.

We first climbed the North tower, and at halfway up, you get to walk across the portion of the cathedral that bridges these two giant towers. The staff did not rush us, and we stayed for hours soaking in the view and exploring the gargoyles. It is incredible to hear the famous bells chime from such a close distance.

In the South tower, you are allowed to go inside to view one of the enormous bells. Our trip concluded with a final climb to the very top of the South tower where we were treated to yet another spectacular view. It was a gorgeous stormy cloudy day, and I love stormy clouds that created breathtaking photos.

The inside of the Notre Dame is yet another breathtaking experience. There is usually a long line to get into the Notre Dame, so it is wise to wake up early and get there when they open at 7AM. On the day we visited, we had the privilege of listening to early morning mass as the congregation sang beautiful songs and recited liturgies in French.

Eiffel Tower

The icon of Paris cannot be missed. There are many lovely views of the Eiffel Tower, but for the best view, go to the parks that surround the Eiffel Tower. You can spend hours strolling along the river and exploring the sprawling park that is right in front of the Eiffel Tower. Bring a picnic if you can!

You can purchase tickets to the top of the Eiffel Tower for 17€ (about $20). Once you are in the Eiffel Tower, you are allowed to stay until closing and enjoy the different views at each of the levels. We chose to take the stairs on the way down and enjoyed the unique perspective of this iconic monument’s architecture.

The Louvre

No trip to Paris would be complete without a visit to the Louvre, the largest museum in the world. There is so much to say about this particular site, we’ve written a separate post about it that you can read here.

The Palace at Versailles

While not as popular as the Louvre, the Palace at Versailles is another incredible destination that is worth visiting. We wish that we could have spent two days to properly explore the entire estate, but you can read our post about the experience here.

Where to stay

We loved our AirBnb, and this particular apartment is in a beautiful neighborhood. Cheaper than a Best Western, you will get a more authentic experience along with a full kitchen and washing machine (which is useful if you’re traveling longterm). We especially loved the little espresso machine.

AirBnb is a fantastic way to travel, and much cheaper than a hotel. If you’d like to learn more about how AirBnbs can save you a ton of money on your next trip, read our tips here.

Getting around

The metro is very useful and easy to use. We recommend using the Google Maps app to plan your route, and it helps to download the metro maps from the website.

Paris

32 photos

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The Acropolis of Athens

The ancient Acropolis hill has been settled by humans for more than 6000 years. Today, ruins of buildings from the Greek Golden Age remain with multiple ancient templates and theaters dating back to 500-300 BC. All of the buildings on top of the Acropolis were built to complement one another, and the giant Parthenon temple is the crowning jewel of them all.

Athens is named after their patron goddess Athena, and the Acropolis served as the center for the worship of Athena for hundreds of years. While many other structures (like the Ancient Agora) were pillaged and destroyed over the years, the Parthenon was always revered and remained intact for thousands of years. However, during the “Great Turkish War” in 1687, an explosion occurred that severely damaged the Parthenon and the ancient treasure kept within.

Travel guide Rick Steves has an excellent free podcast that provides a walking tour of the Acropolis. You can access that podcast at this link.  If you have time, be sure to stop by the nearby Ancient Agora where Rick Steves offers another excellent walking tour.

Areopagus (Mars Hill)

Nearby the Acropolis, you can explore the famous Areopagus, a prominent rock with an incredible view of the city. This is the site where the Apostle Paul delivered his famous sermon from Acts 17, and the text from his sermon is engraved on a large plaque.

This site served many purposes throughout the years. At times, it served as a high court and a meeting place for democratic functions. Today, you can enjoy an incredible 360 view of both the Acropolis.

The Acropolis Museum

Before visiting the Acropolis, take a trip to the new Acropolis museum that was built in 2009. The architecture of the museum is stunning and provides a beautiful setting to enjoy these ancient masterpieces. In recent years, modern pollution caused more damage to the statues than 2,000 years of natural weather. To prevent further damage, the statues have been moved indoors.

The shape of the museum mirrors the layout of the Parthenon building on the Acropolis. On the top floor, you can view all of the surviving statues that were originally positioned along the top of the Parthenon.

The Acropolis was also the central location for Greek democracy. On the Acropolis hill, official decisions and declarations were etched in stone and put on display so that any citizen could read what had been decided. Additionally, visitors would give “tributes” to the goddess Athena, and throughout the museum, you will find various “tributes” including a bust of Alexander the Great and other prominent historical figures.

Olympic Stadium

The Panathenaic Stadium is a short walk from the Acropolis, and this is the site of the first modern Olympics held in 1896. The stadium was originally built in 330 BC, and in 144 AD, a Roman Senator rebuilt the stadium using marble. In the present day, it is the only stadium in the world made entirely of marble.

Getting to the Beach

While Athens is full of history, as a modern city, it can be quite crowded and dirty with pollution. If you want a quick escape to the beach, take a bus to the Tram, and then take T5 or T4 to the “Edem” stop (Google maps can easily help you find your way). This is the first stop with free public beach access, but you could continue taking the tram south and hop on and hop off along the coastline. There are several beautiful places to eat with ocean views, and further down the coast are several shopping centers with American brands.

Santorini

Many people recognize this iconic image with the beautiful white buildings and blue roofs along the Mediterranean. It’s a classic Greece image, but unfortunately, you will not find this view anywhere in Athens (despite the fact that many gift shops sell all kinds of gifts with this picture and “Athens” written on it).

If you want to see this view, then you have to go to Santorini. Don’t worry though. It’s easy to get there by ferry, and it is a lovely weekend trip and a classic Greek experience. To learn more, read our blog post on Santorini here.

Where to stay

You will want to find a place as close to the Acropolis as possible. All of the major sites are very close to one another, and the Acropolis is at the heart of the action. We stayed in a place that was a short 30-minute walk to the Acropolis, and this was perfect for us.

If you want to save a substantial amount of money, consider staying at an AirBnb instead of a hotel. AirBnb is a fantastic way to travel. If you’d like to learn more about how AirBnbs can save you a ton of money on your next trip, read our tips here.

Getting around

The metro is a bit limited in Greece, but if you buy a 5-day transportation pass, you’ll be able to easily use the buses to travel anywhere in the city. We recommend using the Google Maps app to plan your route.

Athens

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Getting There

To travel to Santorini, you really only have two options: a flight, or a ferry. Since there are so many islands in Greece, ferries are very common and a highly recommended experience. We chose the “Blue Star Ferry,” and we loved our experience.

The boat to Santorini was similar to a miniature cruise ship. Rather than your typical ferry’s uncomfortable, cramped seating, the “Blue Star Ferry” had open dining style seating. You simply selected a table and chair that you found comfortable and then settle in for your journey. The total travel time did require 8 hours, but Santorini is worth it! Food is available for purchase on the Ferry.

Oia

“Oia” is absolutely beautiful, and you can spend hours walking these glistening white streets. This is the part of the island with the classic view, and it is on the north side of the island. Needless to say, this is also the expensive part of the island, so if you’re on a budget like us, this is a great place to visit, but you probably will want to stay elsewhere.

It is easy to arrive here using the island bus system. You pay cash once you are on the bus, and all of the busses on the island connect to the central “Fira” bus station. These simple routes make it easy to navigate the island.

Getting that Postcard Shot

In Oia, it is important to remember that these narrow tiny streets are residential, and there are many signs posted warning visitors to stay out. Please be mindful to respect these restrictions and the residents here. The lady below was particularly protective of her residence, but she also didn’t mind taking photos with friendly tourists that she allowed into her porch one at a time (when we declined her invitation, she also shouted “Stupido” because we were missing her perfect photo).

This classic postcard shot is only available down one particular street. Follow the main road “Nik. Nomikou” until you reach the fancy jewelry store “BVLGARI ALEXANDROS” (pictured above). Just before this sign, turn left and continue toward the ocean. When you are able to, turn right and follow the path until you reach this viewpoint.

The other classic shot is of the glowing city along the cliffs during what is called “blue hour.” This is the hours immediately after sunset (similar to “golden hour” prior to sunset.” For this view, it’s best to journey down to the Oia castle.

Perissa Black Sand Beach

Along the beach, there are many coffee shops where you can grab a complimentary chair and umbrella on the beach and relax while eating lunch. We enjoyed strolling from one place to another trying to find the comfiest chair and the best coffee. Everywhere you go there is a beautiful view of the Mediterranean ocean and you can hear the relaxing sound of the waves beating against the shoreline.

The Perissa Black Sand Beach is the largest beach with black sand in the island of Santorini. Don’t worry: the sand won’t blacken your skin, but it is warmer than normal sand. There is a bus stop nearby, and there are plenty of restaurants along the beach.

Getting around

The island bus system is basic but easy to use. Fortunately, we traveled at the end of the season, but we have been told that these buses are typically quite full and difficult to get on with many people required to stand for the duration of the ride.

All of the busses on the island connected to the central “Fira” bus station (which makes it very easy to navigate). There is no need to purchase tickets in advance. Instead, you simply board the bus and pay your fare during the drive.

Where to stay

Since we were staying only a few days and were making late reservations, we booked a discount rate at Smaragdi hotel near Perissa Black Sand Beach. Remember, the most popular part of the island is “Oia,” and you will want to be mindful of the bus travel time required when choosing where to book your stay.

If you have time to book in advance, there are a lot of beautiful AirBnbs on Santorini. AirBnb is a fantastic way to travel. If you’d like to learn more about how AirBnbs can save you a ton of money on your next trip, read our tips here.

To read more about our trip to Greece, click here.

Santorini

26 photos

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Must See

Old Town is the main attraction in Split, and it was built within the ruins of a Roman palace. This was Emperor Diocletian’s retirement palace, and it is the best preserved Roman palace in existence.

We loved getting lost in the streets of Old Town. The narrow, twisty streets will take you on a journey through history. Architecture from the Roman era, Medieval times, and the 12th and 14th century are woven together like a beautiful tapestry.

Live like an Emperor

The basement of the old palace is incredible, and it is a great way to escape the heat in the middle of the day. This lower level was built for the sole purpose to elevate the Emperor’s apartment (since he considered himself to be a god, he couldn’t live on the same level as his subjects).

There is a small entry fee of 32 kuna (about $5), and it is well worth it. While the apartment ruins above have changed drastically over the years, the lower levels remain perfectly intact. The floor plan mirrors the Emperor’s apartment above, and this allows you to imagine what a Roman Emperor’s palace was really like.

Buy the Red Ticket

There are a few key sites to see in the city, and you can purchase one ticket to visit some of the most popular. The red ticket costs 60 kuna (about $10), and it includes access to the Bell Tower, Cathedral, Baptismal, Treasury, and Crypt.

The Bell Tower is the icon of the city. From the top, you get an incredible 360 degree view that includes the beautiful Mediterranean ocean. There are a lot of steps, but the view is worth the climb.

In the Cathedral, you will see a stunning dome built during the Roman era. This was originally built as Emperor Diocletian’s crypt (he was the last great Christian persecutor). Ironically, when Rome became Christianized, his bones were thrown out, and the building was turned into a Cathedral that honors the martyrs he killed.

The Baptistry was originally built as a temple to the god Jupiter (the Roman equivalent to Zeus). Emperor Diocletian claimed that Jupiter was his father, and so he built this temple to worship there. During the Medieval times, the building was converted into a Baptistry.

Finally, the real reason to see the Treasury and Crypt is that they are a wonderful way to escape the heat. Apart from that, they aren’t really impressive, but the Treasury is air conditioned, and the Crypt is below the Cathedral with a well that keeps it nice and cool.

The History (Nerd Alert)

Diocletian was the Emperor that founded the tetrarchy in Rome. He ruled from 284AD to 305AD alongside his brother Augustus Maximian and his more junior Cesars Galerius and Constantius who was the father of Constantine the Great. The “Golden Wall” entrance has five cutouts for statues: two for the Augusti, and two for the Cesars, and the fifth spot held a statue of an eagle symbolizing Jupiter, the god that Diocletian considered his father (Jupiter is the Roman name for the equivalent Greek god Zeus).

Diocletian is the only Emperor of Rome that successfully retired, and he lived out his golden years here along the Croatian coast (known at the time as Dalmatia).

If you aren’t familiar, most ancient Roman buildings that are in ruins were mainly destroyed due to repurposing the materials. For example, in Rome, the Vatican was partially built using stones taken from the Colluseum. The Roman architecture didn’t fail over time, but the materials were taken and repurposed to build something else. In fact, the iconic Bell Tower in Split was created using materials taken from the upper levels of Diocletian’s apartment.

However, in Split, the lower levels of Diocletian’s apartment have remained untouched for nearly 2,000 years. They were only excavated in 1950, and they are some of the best preserved Roman ruins in the world.

Now, the reason for this preservation is quite comical actually. After the fall of Rome, the barbarians were attacking and burning the city, and the locals hid in the lower levels of the palace. As time went on, and things were safer, they started to build on the upper floors of the city. When this happened, the citizens decided to help themselves to a sewer system by poking holes in the upper levels of the palace and dropping their bodily waste down to the area below. The centuries of sewage protected this part of the palace from being repurposed. Don’t worry, that stench is long gone now.

Where to stay

We loved our AirBnb, and this particular host has three units in the same building that are very similar. It’s only a short 10 minute walk from Diocletian’s palace, and the air conditioning was a welcomed escape from the hot summer weather. This AirBnb was a perfect home base that allowed us to quickly rest and then go back out exploring.

AirBnb is a fantastic way to travel, and much cheaper than a hotel. If you’d like to learn more about how AirBnbs can save you a ton of money on your next trip, read our tips here.

Getting there

Renting a car is a great option, and it is a beautiful drive. You will undoubtedly drive along the Croatian coast for at least part of your journey, and there are a lot of beautiful, fun stops along the way. Close to Split, there is a town called Omiš, and it was originally founded by pirates.

We were traveling from Sarajevo, and the road is stunning. You are in the midst of the Alps, and you pass several lakes and other beautiful scenes. However, the driving style in Bosnia and Herzegovina (and Croatia) is very intense and competitive. It can be quite intimidating, especially on curvy mountain and coastal roads.

We opted to take the bus since we were living in Sarajevo. It was a long bus ride, but we took advantage of the time to learn a bit about Roman history and Emperor Diocletian. There is an excellent podcast called “The History of Rome,” and episodes 122-131 are worth listening to.

Split, Croatia

34 photos

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AirBnb is a lot like “Hotwire” or “Expedia.” You search for the city that you’d like to stay in, specify your dates of travel and price range, and you are presented with dozens of available homes with customer reviews.

How does it work?

Private owners list their properties available for short-term rental on the site. These owners are referred to as “Hosts.” It is becoming increasingly common for people to co-host now, and there will be multiple staff managing the listing. We have found several hosts that manage 3-10 different listings as what appears to be a full-time job.

The best hosts are called “Superhosts,” and if you are nervous, you can limit your search to these hosts only. Each host determines their own “house rules,” so be sure to read these carefully before requesting to book.

While some properties are available to “book instantly,” most listings require that you “request to book.” With this, you send a short message to the host (and you may include any questions that you might have), and they will review your profile and “approve” you to book the AirBnb.

The check-in and check-out process is determined by your host, so there can be some variation. Typically though, you’ll pick up the key either from a mailbox, a lock box, or the host will meet you. For check-out, you typically leave the key in the apartment. Easy and simple.

Cheaper than a Hotel

We have saved at least 50% compared to staying in hotels everywhere we have travelled, and the AirBnbs are more comfortable than your typical hotel. You usually have a fridge, a dining table, a kitchen, a washing machine, and many other conveniences that feel more like “home” than a hotel room.

The location is also away from the busy, crowded tourist parts of the city. Not only do you get to experience a more authentic part of the city, but you also save money on food and other essentials. In most cities, the same food was again 50% cheaper near our AirBnb than restaurants in downtown.

How to find an amazing AirBnb

There are many variations between AirBnbs, and you can find everything from a luxury apartment in France to a bamboo hut in Thailand. The powerful search and filter tools on AirBnb make it easy to find the home perfect for you.

Since we are living abroad and often staying for more than a month, we typically look for an “entire home/apartment” with a kitchen, wireless internet (for work and school), and a washing machine whenever possible (it is a PAIN to find a laundromat or laundry service in many places). We also require air conditioning when the environment is hot (in places like France and Greece, nobody has air conditioning).

The key to finding a stellar AirBnb is in the reviews. Only choose places with lots of reviews (the more the better, but typically our minimum is 20+ reviews). Use the “search reviews” feature to look for specific comments on things like internet speed and cleanliness. Also, be sure to look at the dates of the reviews carefully to ensure that there are some reviews posted recently (some listings have lots of positive reviews, but they are several years old and this can be a problem).

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